Hey folks, if you’ve ever bought a steel track chassis from us, you know these things aren’t just metal boxes—they’re tough workhorses, the backbone of everything from construction equipment to snow blowers to compact loaders. Here at our shop, we sell these bad boys every single day, and one question we get nonstop is: “How do I store this thing when I’m not using it, so it doesn’t get ruined before I even get to use it?” Steel Track Chassis
Look, I get it. You’re a contractor tucking your skid steer chassis away for the winter, a small business owner stashing your mini-excavator chassis between jobs, or even a hobbyist storing their track chassis-powered go-kart for months. You don’t want to drop thousands of bucks on a unit just to find it rusted, bent, or seized up when you go to pull it out. I’ve seen it happen more times than I can count—guys who store their chassis in a damp garage, leave it covered in mud that dries for months, or just leave it sitting on a bare concrete floor like it’s no big deal. Spoiler: it is a big deal.
Today I’m breaking down exactly how we tell our customers to store their steel track chassis, no fancy jargon, just real-world tips we’ve picked up from years of selling these things and seeing what works (and what doesn’t). Let’s dive in.
First off, let’s get one thing straight: steel track chassis are built to last, but they’re not invincible. The two biggest enemies of a steel track chassis when it’s in storage? Rust and moisture. And then there’s also physical damage—like if you just leave it resting on dirt that settles and bends the frame, or rodents chewing through wiring if it’s stored somewhere outside. I’m not even kidding about the rodents; a buddy of mine had his stored utility chassis get half its harness chewed up by mice last winter. Cost him way more than a proper storage setup would’ve.
So step one, where the heck are you storing this thing? Let’s start with the best option: indoor, climate-controlled space. If you’ve got a dry garage, a warehouse bay, a rented storage unit that stays above freezing (wait, speaking of freezing—more on that later), that’s your holy grail. But I know not everyone has that. A lot of people have to store their stuff outdoors, especially if they’re running a small operation with limited space. I’m not gonna lie, outdoor storage is doable, but you gotta do it right. No cutting corners here.
Let’s start with outdoor storage first, since that’s the scenario most people struggle with. If you have to leave your chassis outside, the first rule is never, ever set it directly on bare dirt or concrete. I know concrete’s hard and flat, but it’s porous. It holds moisture—even if it looks dry, there’s water vapor in there. Leave steel sitting on concrete for months, and you’ll start seeing rust spots on the bottom frame rails before you know it. What do you use instead? Wooden pallets. The cheap, rough ones you get from hardware stores work perfect. Just make sure they’re in good shape, no rotted spots, and set the chassis right on top. That lifts it up off the ground, lets air circulate underneath, and keeps it away from standing water. Pro tip: if you can, elevate the pallets a little more—like set them on cinder blocks so even if it rains, water doesn’t pool under the pallets. That’s a tiny extra step that makes a huge difference.
Next, cover it. But not just any cover. A lot of people grab a regular tarp from the hardware store and drape it over. Bad move. Tarps hold moisture against the metal. If you seal a damp chassis under a plastic tarp, you’re basically creating a rainforest for rust. You want a breathable cover—something made of canvas or heavy-duty polyethylene that’s perforated, so air can flow through. We sell these exact covers to our customers, and half the time I’ll include a free one with a big order, ’cause I’ve seen what happens when you use the wrong cover. Also, make sure the cover fits snug, but not too tight. You don’t want it flapping around in the wind and catching dirt, but you also don’t want it pulling on frame parts. Tie it down with heavy straps, not cheap rope that’ll fray. And leave a little gap on the side or the top for air to escape—so condensation doesn’t get trapped.
Oh, and one big no-no for outdoor storage: don’t park it low to the ground under trees. Leaves fall, hold moisture, acid from leaves eats at steel. Bird droppings? Same thing. Tree sap is even worse—super sticky, hard to clean off, and it eats through paint and metal over time. If you have to store under a tree, at least put a layer of plastic sheeting or old carpet under the pallet to catch leaves and sap. Better yet, park it somewhere open, away from overhangs so water doesn’t drip on it.
Now if you’ve got indoor storage, that’s way simpler, but you still gotta do the basics. A dry garage with a concrete floor is fine, but again, don’t leave it directly on the concrete. Pallets still work here—same reason, air flow. If you’ve got space to roll it into a spare bay in your shop, even better. Just make sure the area’s not prone to flooding (obviously) and that there’s no leaky pipes dripping on it. I had a customer once store his chassis next to a sink that leaked for a month—came back to a rusted axle housing. Stupid mistake, easy to avoid.
Next big step: prep the chassis before you put it away. You don’t just load it up and park it—you gotta clean it first. Dirt, mud, grease, road salt, all that stuff is a rust magnet. If you leave a layer of caked-on mud on the frame and tracks, moisture gets trapped in there and starts eating at the steel within a couple weeks. Take a pressure washer (just don’t hold it too close to seals or wiring—keep it a foot or so away) and blast off all the grime. Pay extra attention to the undercarriage, the track pins, the frame rails, and any nooks where mud hides. Once it’s clean, let it dry completely. I mean, fully dry. Don’t put it away while it’s still damp from washing. I usually wait a day or two, even if it’s indoors. If it’s outside, give it at least 24 hours in the sun (if you can) or use a air compressor to blow out all the crevices. That’s non-negotiable.
Then, rust protection. Even if it’s clean and dry, you wanna add a little extra layer of defense. For the frame and track parts, a good coat of rust-proofing spray works. Not that cheap spray paint you use for home projects—get something designed for metal equipment. We sell a specific rust inhibitor spray that a lot of our customers swear by. Just spray it on all the exposed metal parts: axles, frame edges, track guides, any bolts that aren’t covered. Don’t overdo it, but cover every spot that’s not sealed or painted already. If you have any bare spots from wear and tear, touch those up with primer first, then the rust spray. That’s the best way to stop rust before it starts.
What about the tracks themselves? Steel tracks are tough, but if they’re left sitting for months, they can get flat spots, or even seize up if they’re under tension the whole time. Wait, tension—yeah, that’s another thing. Don’t leave the tracks at full tension when storing them. Let a little air out of the track adjusters, so there’s slack. That takes pressure off the track links, keeps them from warping, and also prevents the adjuster pins from seizing up. I’ve seen guys leave tracks tight all winter, come back and the adjuster’s stuck so bad they have to cut the track to get it loose. Not a fun repair job.
Also, moving parts—like any hinges, bearings, track drive sprockets—you wanna lubricate those before storage. Use a heavy-duty grease, not just regular oil. Oil dries out and wears off, grease stays put for months. Grease all the pivot points, the sprocket gears, the track pins. That way, when you pull it out of storage, everything moves smoothly, no seized parts. Bonus: lubricating also keeps moisture away from those metal parts, so less rust.
Wait, what about extreme cold? If you’re storing it somewhere where temperatures drop below freezing, like most of the northern US and Canada, there’s a few extra steps. First, if it has any hydraulic fluid or fuel in it, make sure it’s rated for low temperatures. Regular hydraulic fluid gets thick when it’s cold, so if you leave regular fluid in over winter, when you go to start it, it might not flow right. Some people even drain the fuel if they’re storing it for more than a couple months, because gas can go bad in the cold and clog filters. But if you do drain the fuel, make sure you run the engine for a few minutes to burn any leftover fuel in the lines. Also, if your chassis has any rubber parts—like track pads—keep it away from direct sunlight when storing in cold? No, wait, actually, rubber can get brittle in extreme cold, so don’t park it somewhere that’s exposed to constant freezing wind if you can help it. Again, that’s where a covered space comes in.
Oh, and one thing I forgot: what if you’re storing it for super long periods, like a year or more? The same rules apply, but you might wanna add a few extra things. Like, if it’s not moving at all, put a block of wood under the frame at the midpoint, so it’s not resting all its weight on just the front or rear ends. That prevents the frame from bending over time (I’ve seen that too, from heavy equipment left on a flat spot for a year). Also, check on it every few months. Open the cover, wipe off any dust, touch up any rust spots that popped up, re-lubricate parts if needed. A 10-minute check every 3 months is way easier than fixing a ruined chassis when you need it.
Now, let’s talk about mistakes we see all the time that you should avoid. First, skipping the cleaning step. I can’t stress that enough. Last year, a customer brought in a chassis he’d stored for 6 months, and the frame was rusted through in three spots because he left mud on it. He called us mad, but we told him he should’ve cleaned it. Second, using a plastic tarp. Like I said before, it traps moisture. A customer did that last winter, came back to the tracks covered in condensation rust—they had to replace the whole track set, which cost more than a proper cover. Third, not adjusting track tension. That’s a cheap fix, but so many guys skip it. Fourth, leaving it in a spot where water pools under it. Even if you put it on pallets, make sure water doesn’t collect around the pallets—clear any standing water nearby.
Look, at the end of the day, storing your steel track chassis right isn’t that hard. It’s just a little prep work, a few smart choices, and avoiding the common shortcuts. The whole point is to keep that workhorse ready when you need it, not have to sink money into repairs before you even use it.
If you’re in the market for a steel track chassis, or you have one that needs a tune-up before storage, we’ve got you covered. We sell a range of sizes for every job, from small mini-excavator chassis to heavy-duty construction ones. Shoot us a message if you have questions about storage, or if you’re ready to pick up a new chassis. We’re here to help, not just sell parts.
Rotary Drilling Rig Track Assembly References:
- Equipment Dealers Association. (2022). Proper Storage Practices for Compact Construction Equipment. EDA Technical Bulletin.
- American Iron and Steel Institute. (2021). Rust Prevention for Outdoor Metal Equipment. AISI Maintenance Guide.
- National Rental Equipment Register. (2023). Seasonal Storage Tips for Tracked Machinery. Rental Industry Best Practices.
Murphy Construction Machinery (Shandong) Co., Ltd.
Murphy Construction Machinery (Shandong) Co., Ltd. is one of the most professional steel track chassis manufacturers and suppliers in China, also supports customized service with low price. Please feel free to buy CE approved steel track chassis made in China here from our factory. For pricelist, contact us now.
Address: Room A3, Zone E, Yangqiao Industrial Park, Liuxing Street, High Tech Zone, Jining City, Shandong Province
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